Making Korean Sulppang with Makgeolli and Sourdough Starter

 Since my first sourdough bread a few weeks ago, I’ve made another sourdough on Christmas morning, and tried Sulppang (Korean-version sourdough) with my starter.

Sulppang

To make traditional Korean sulppang—steamed rice-wine bread gently lifted by fermentation—one usually begins with saeng makgeolli, unpasteurized rice wine still alive with wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria. The history of Sul-ppang is inextricably linked to the periods of hardship in mid-20th century Korea. During the post-war era and the lean years when rice was scarce, wheat flour provided by international aid became a staple. However, without the expensive commercial yeast used in Western bakeries, Korean mothers turned to Makgeolli. Because traditional Makgeolli (unfiltered rice wine) is a living beverage teeming with wild yeast and lactic acid bacteria, it served as a natural leavening agent. By mixing this spirited brew with flour and a pinch of salt and sugar, the dough would slowly swell and breathe. 

But I couldn’t find saeng makgeolli in the US where I live. What fills most shelves is pasteurized—shelf-stable and the microorganisms have been stilled. So when I wanted to make sulppang, I turned to another living culture already at home: my sourdough starter. Immigrants know how to adapt.

Unlike western bread, Sulppang (술빵), literally “alcohol bread,” is steamed. The moist heat of the steamer prevents a hard crust from forming, resulting in a texture that is uniquely "elastic yet soft"—a quality Koreans describe as jjondeuk-han. Traditionally, adding black beans, peas, or corn on top was a strategic way to add protein and texture to a meal that was often the only thing on the table. I added corn and dried cranberries instead of sugar.

Making Sulppang is very similar to Sourdough Bread. The only differences are adding two cups of makgeolli instead of water and steaming the dough instead of baking in the oven. 

Making sourdough Sul-ppang reminded me that cooking is a universal language. Whether you are a baker in San Francisco tending to a sourdough starter or a grandmother in a Korean village mixing Makgeolli into dough, we are all performing the same act of faith: that the invisible life around us will turn those simple materials into something that nourishes both the body and the spirit.

Hope you can try Sulppang!

Recipe Summary: Traditional Korean Steamed Rice-Wine Bread (Sulppang) This recipe yields a nostalgic, spongy, and slightly tangy bread using the natural fermentation power of traditional Korean rice wine (Makgeolli). Core Ingredients Dry: 4 cups All-purpose flour, 1/2 tsp Salt. Wet: 2 cup Room-temperature Makgeolli (Must be unpasteurized/live* for fermentation) *In case of pasteurized Makgeolli, add ¼ cup of sourdough starter Sweetener: 1/2 cup Sugar (adjust to preference) or dried fruits Optional:  2 eggs; 1 tsp Dry yeast (speeds up the process); toppings, such as Black beans (soaked), raisins, corn kernels, or pumpkin seeds. Preparation Steps 1. Mixing the Dough In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. Gradually sift in the flour and whisk until the batter is smooth. The consistency should be thicker than pancake batter—heavy enough to drop slowly from a spoon. 2. The First Fermentation (The Rise) Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a thick towel. Place it in a warm, draft-free spot (around 30-35°C / 86-95°F). Let it ferment for 3 to 4 hours. Or at room temperature, let it ferment overnight. You will know it's ready when the dough has doubled in volume and is filled with tiny air bubbles. 3. Steaming Prepare a steamer by lining it with a damp cloth  Pour the batter into the steamer or into individual cups (fill about 80% full). Sprinkle the remaining toppings artistically over the surface. Steam on high heat for 20 minutes, then reduce to medium and steam for another 20 minutes. Crucial Step: Turn off the heat and let it sit (rest) with the lid closed for 5 minutes to prevent the bread from collapsing. Success Tips The Wine: Ensure your Makgeolli is "Fresh" (Saeng/생). If it is pasteurized, the wild yeast is dead, and the bread will not rise without the help of additional dry yeast. Temperature: If your house is cold, you can place the bowl in an oven (turned off) next to a bowl of hot water. Doneness Check: Insert a toothpick into the center; if it comes out clean, your Sul-ppang is perfectly cooked.